Brie and Soph's Excellent Adventure: Part II

Brie and Soph's Excellent Adventure Part II: Chiang Mai

We spent our first day in Chiang Mai wandering and resting. Our journey was exhausting and we hadn't stayed in the same place for more than one night yet. We explored the old city (temples, boutique art shops, cafes) and drank fresh fruit smoothies, all led by fellow Grinnell Corps fellow Heather. Basically, we did what anyone would want to do when they first arrived in Thailand. At night, we met Heather and other visiting Grinnellians for the Sunday Walking Market, which had tons of art, food, jewelry (I spent most of my money on that, surprise surprise) and other knick-knacks. It's fun just to walk around markets that are full of so much energy.

Colorful houses

A pretty Chiang Mai "soi" (street)

Sophie in a "songthaew," a red truck taxi 

A temple is called a "Wat" (Wat Phra Singh)

Inside Wat Phra Singh

Relaxing in a hammock at our hostel

Spices at the night market

Parrots!

In front of Wat Phra Singh at night

One of the most exciting things I did in Chiang Mai was ride an elephant. Disclaimer: I did my due diligence and was careful to register with an elephant farm that limits the amount of rides an elephant does per day, does not teach elephants to do unnatural things (like paint a picture or stand on its hind legs) and actually serves as a rescue center for abused elephants. I could talk (write) about it for hours, but I know all you want is illustrations:

Elephants always look like they're smiling

Eeeeek

Baby anything is infinitely cuter than any adult version. 
And elephants are cute to begin with...

Come at me, elephants

We learned how to feed them, get on (and off, thank goodness), the Burmese commands for them to go forward (and stop, thank goodness), turn left or right, and then how to “thank them” for doing a good job. In addition to the spoken commands, we learned how to ruffle their ears with our feet to make them move, both to go forward, the right ear to steer left and vice versa. It all culminated in a trek through the rainforest, and ended at a large pond where we got to bathe our elephant. Mine was named Tong Poon, if you were wondering, and she was the cutest elephant ever.

Sticking the dismount

Elephants look just as cool sitting as they do standing

On our trek

Washing Tong Poon.

Then, this happened.

And it was awesome.

Another real highlight was the “Bua Tong" Waterfall, or sticky waterfall. It’s called the “sticky” waterfall because it’s not slippery! You can climb up and down it really easily. Yes, like a monkey. Yes, like Spiderman. It’s because the water from the fall mixes with the limestone in the rocks, and then science happens. The rocks are not sticky like glue… it’s not a messy endeavor. They are just like rough carpeting or a regular, not wet rock. It is very difficult to explain, but pictures say it all!

Climbing cause it's no big deal

Spot the China Doll!

Like a mermaid

See how I'm comfortably standing on my tiptoes? 
It's so hard to explain how easy it is to climb!

After that, our tour guide (AKA the songthaew driver who took us the hour out of Chiang Mai) named P. Jew took us to the main area where all the water comes from. The water was an amazing blue color; it was awesome. The waterfall has a legend about princesses and droughts and caves, so he then took us a few minutes away to a large cave that had a humongous Buddhist shrine. He told us to find a small crevice crawl through, and that if we do we can see the princesses’ “kitchen area.” We were extremely dubious that we had found the right crevice, because it seemed impossible that a human being could fit through the hole, however, I am always the first to say “screw it, I’ll go in” and I’m glad I did! There were really cool stalagmites... or stalactites (seventh grade science is for chumps) and the view of the forest was great.

My first thought: "really? really..."

Buddha

For Buddha to human scale purposes

Happy to spelunk

That's the crevice. Sketchy, right?

Sophie and I were lucky enough to take a Thai cooking class. I was a notoriously bad cook, messing up such complicated recipes as “grilled cheese” and “cereal with milk” (is it milk and then cereal or cereal and then milk? So complicated!) but I think I am really coming along, and will (probably) be able to feed myself in the near future. Let’s not think about all of those times I lived in an apartment… thank goodness for roommates. We started with a tour of a Thai food market, where I learned about all four types of Thai ginger, fish oil, and sticky rice. 

Curry up, don't be slow!

So many gingers

We then had a very casual cooking class. We made six dishes each, and we had a lot of choices. I was able to try most of the dishes, because Sophie and I made an effort to choose different options. I made pad thai, hot and sour soup with roasted chicken, green curry, fried cashew nut with chicken, papaya salad, and sweet sticky rice with mango. It was all amazing, and even though this might sound conceited, it was probably the best Thai food I had in Chiang Mai. It is less conceited to note that it was likely the incredibly fresh, pre-portioned-for-my-recipe food that the class provided. It was a great experience, and if you’re really nice to me, I can cook all the food for you when I return home because I have a recipe book!

Pad Thai

Papaya salad

Spring rolls (created by Sophie)

Mango and sticky rice

Speaking of food, let’s talk about Thai food. It’s great. I still hold that China Chinese food is equally as good and should get a lot more credit from Western tourists. However, Chinese food does not utilize raw vegetables or fruit in its cuisine, and that's something I really miss having in my diet, so I was especially into the papaya salads and fresh fruit shakes. The papaya salad was often incredibly spicy, but totally awesome. Also amazing are two Northern Thailand specialties: kow soi and this special Chiang Mai sausage. Also, I am not one for non-chocolate desserts, but sticky rice with mango… it comes with these crunchy things and it is truly incredible.

Chiang Mai sausage

Khao soi: coconut-y broth with both soft and crispy noodles, and a leg of chicken. You can also add lime, onions and pickled cabbage, which is really delicious.

Papaya salad, often served with sticky rice

Banana roti... fried dough, bananas, and chocolate. What could be bad?

One night, Heather took Sophie and me to a more “local” restaurant, which was great. In the middle of our meal, it started down pouring. I mean rainy season downpour. The staff was so prepared for the immediate electrical blackout this rain caused; we all had candles at our table within a minute or two and the tarps for the semi-outdoor restaurant were down and secured. It set a nice ambiance for the rest of our meal…

Meal by candlelight

Our last day, Heather and Maddie took us to Wat Phalad and to Doi Suthep. Appaently, Thai people are not big hikers, so we were seemingly the only people on the four-ish hour hike up. However, we took a trail that is called the "monk" trail, because apparently it is the easiest (or maybe it was the easiest way) for the monks to get from the monastery to the main city. I saw a lot of bugs and flowers I’ve never seen before, and I was also plagued with mosquitoes buzzing around. No matter where I go, they find me. A lot of great views of the city, beautiful scenery, and uphill battles (literally.) Wat Phalad was visibly older and well preserved, in juxtaposition with Doi Suthep, which was golden and glittery.

The beautiful Wat Phalad

Evidence of life on the monk trail

View of Chiang Mai

Heather, Sophie, and Maddie on the way to Doi Suthep

I can't remember the exact terminology, but ringing these bells effectively "earns" you karma points,. Pretend I phrased that better, please.

I owe a huge thank you to Heather and Maddie, the two Grinnell Corps Thailand fellows, who served as great hosts for this trip. They showed us a different side of Chiang Mai than the hippie hemp-ridden tourists and the classy honeymooners got to see. With them, I saw out of the way markets, Payap University, the expat “spaghetti dinners,” plus I got to see the city on the back of a motorbike steered by expert drivers.

Coming soon: China Doll in Cambodia…

Brie and Soph's Excellent Adventure: Part I

My trip abroad was overwhelmingly amazing. And it was a lot to process upon my return to Nanjing. Yes, let's use that as the excuse as to why I haven't posted anything about it yet... let's pretend I didn't get horribly sick and that I didn't harbor a new obsession with Mindy Kaling's recent TV series…

Brie and Soph's Excellent Adventure Part I: Getting There

Sophie and I, being the young adventurers (read: broke recent graduates) we are, decided to fly to Thailand from Hong Kong instead of from Nanjing. Unfortunately, Hong Kong is normally a flight away. Instead, we took an overnight train to Shenzhen, which has an underground subway (the British meaning, as in a walking tunnel) to Hong Kong border patrol. However, Nanjing to Shenzhen is a 25 hour train ride. Being the young adventurers (again, really broke) we are, we got the least expensive sleepers on the third level. When we were walking toward our train, we only saw two levels of beds. "Wow!" we naively thought, "there must only be two levels!"

We were wrong. There were three. On the third level, it is only possible to lie down. You have to hoist yourself up the ladder, then become vertical immediately. It is unpleasant, but it is manageable for young adventurers like us. We were able to steal flip down seats occasionally, otherwise the nice people on the first level bed let us sit there to read or chat.

I read, played Set (thanks Mom!) but I mostly slept through the train ride. We stayed the night in Shenzhen with a friend we met while being TEFL trained, and the next afternoon we headed to Hong Kong for our flight.

In Hong Kong, we met up for dinner with a friend of a friend who is now, I would say, just a one-degree of separation friend, and then we went to the airport. Areas of Hong Kong really look like New York City! The neon lights, the crowded streets, the foreign men trying to sell me "real Timex watches" on the sidewalk. Homesickness abounded!

When we arrived at the airport, the only available kiosk was in business class, so we went to get our tickets there. Our tickets had a big stamp that said "BUSINESS CLASS." This is important to my story, trust me. At the gate, we got in the longest line of people at the Economy station, but a nice attendant told us we were in the wrong line. 

"No no," we insisted, "we simply got our tickets from the business sections. But we're economy."

"No," she answered, "please get in the business class line."

"NO!"

"Yes"

"NO!" (this went on awhile...)

We finally ceded and defiantly sauntered over to entrance, where we were sure to be denied. When we were let in, Sophie and I had a moment of panic in which we thought that we accidentally bought business instead of economy and oh, what a waste of money that would have been for two young adventurers such as ourselves! But then we realized there was no way we both individually accidentally bought such expensive tickets.

Basically, we got upgraded. It was really exciting. There were other bedraggled backpackers who were equally as confused, then freaked out, then super psyched to be on such a fancy airplane. I had my own airplane pod. Open bar. Massage chair. Full meal on my three hour flight at 9 PM. A fancy table cloth for said meal. Swiveling complicated tray tables. Hot towels for my face and hands. AUTOMATIC BLINDS FOR THE WINDOW. How pointless is that? 

Champagne, anyone? Look at that POD!

Why yes, I will have champagne, thank you very much.
So many movies!

You can't tell, but I'm fully vertical.
Better than the vertical-ness from the train, I'll tell you that much...

A good meal by any standards. But this was an airplane.

After one night in Bangkok, (cue the overtly racist and sexist music!) Sophie and I flew to Chiang Mai. And that is where my vacation really begins. Sorry, I am still really excited that I got placed in business class... it was really fancy... China Doll is a fancy doll...

She's Back...

Why, hello! I didn't see you there. Welcome, friends, to the first of many posts about my jet setting adventures around southeast Asia.

Since I do not have the brain capacity to fully understand each and every day of my three week trip, I will give you a teaser of what is to come. I have chosen a photograph from each day of my trip (although some days, travel days, do not always have a photo to share.) Since I am not the greatest photographer, I have chosen photos that I either really like, or that I think sum up my day or my feelings for that place and time best as possible. So... before I share each excruciating detail of my trip, enjoy these photos!

1/24 I had a 25 hour train ride, so all I did was read this and sleep.

1/25 I arrived in Shenzhen, China, and a friend took us out for Mexican. I hadn't eaten anything remotely Mexican since August. It was exciting and warranted a picture.

1/26 Upgraded to business class like it ain't no thang. 

1/27 Sophie in a Thai "songthaew" taxi. (Chiang Mai) 

1/28 In front of a temple. (Chiang Mai) 

1/29 Riding an elephant cause it's no big deal... (Chiang Mai)

1/30 Sticky waterfall: the limestone and science makes it easy to climb up and down like Spiderman. (Chiang Mai)

1/31 I made pad thai in a cooking class, and it wasn't terrible! (Chiang Mai)
 

2/1 Doi Suthep, one of the most famous temples in Thailand. (Chiang Mai)

2/2 I wish this was the case, but I almost got scammed at the border between Thailand and Cambodia. Twice.

2/3 The ancient temple Bayon in Angkor Thom. (Siem Reap, Cambodia) 

2/4 Bantay Srei, famous for its miniature and detailed carvings... and some random girl.
(Siem Reap)

2/5 Ta Prohm, my favorite temple. I also went to Angkor Wat on the fifth, but this temple, preserved "like it was found," covered with trees and moss, was really incredible. (Siem Reap)

2/6 I only have one photo from the sixth, as we were traveling from Siem Reap to Koh Chang. They stuffed so many people in the van, there was no room for our luggage! Naturally, this was the "VIP van." I hate to think what the van for non-important people would be like...

2/7 Sunset in Koh Chang, Thailand.

2/8 "Lonely Beach" in Koh Chang.

2/9 Snorkeling in Koh Chang.

2/10 The colorful accessories of the Hill Tribes at the Sunday night market. (Chiang Mai) 

2/11 Hong Kong at night, the view from a friend's apartment. 

2/12 The HK skyline. And some girl.

2/13  Another 25 hour train ride, and no, I'm still not done with it.

2/14 While I was playing solo set on the train, a four year old Chinese boy decided to join me. So for two hours, we sat there and threw the cards in a pile on the empty seat next to me while he announced how many figures were on each card. There are no more than three per card. It was not fun, but he was adorable and excited about it. And I was really, really bored.

More soon! Right now, I am just recuperating (I got kind of sick in Chiang Mai, so I am still fighting off that cold.) It was an amazing trip, but I'm happy to be home. Thailand and Cambodia, checked off the China Doll Bucket List!